The Dunkirk spirit

Seventy years on from its liberation in World War Two, Dunkirk is a thriving coastal city

For those who have done every day trip possible from Brussels, or those who just want to get out of Belgium for a weekend, Dunkirk delivers. Just 10km from the Belgian border, the city may not be the most obvious location for a holiday. It’s a town whose historical significance often overshadows its merits as a tourist destination. But Dunkirk has as much to offer as its Flemish counterparts, Ostend and Blankenberge, making it a great getaway for both the relaxed holidaymaker and the history buff.

Dunkirk was founded in 800AD as a fishing town. For a long time a pawn in disputes between Spain, the Netherlands, England and France, it became definitively French in 1662 under Louis XIV. Dunkirk was the last French town to be liberated in World War Two, having been the centre of a major evacuation manoeuvre – codenamed Operation Dynamo and commonly known as the Miracle of Dunkirk – over nine days in May and June 1940, when more than 300,000 British and French soldiers were rescued from its beaches under threat of a major German advance. Today, the town centre has been rebuilt, but its wartime legacy hasn’t faded. With a population of 100,000, Dunkirk is a successful port city and there’s much more to be seen than the famous beaches – from the Fine Arts Museum to Carnival celebrations in February; it even boasts a Unesco World Heritage Site in the form of the Belfry of Saint-Eloi church.

The Malo-les-Bains area is the heart of tourist Dunkirk. This quarter, once its own district but formally part of the city of Dunkirk since 1970, encompasses a beach promenade, a casino and plenty of charming pre-war architecture. A typical French-style square complete with boulangerie can be found not far from the beach, and the weekly farmer’s market is held here on Tuesdays. Dunkirk’s wartime history is never forgotten: a few streets away is a war memorial, behind it a corner building with bullet holes from the fighting still visible.

Malo-les-Bains can pride itself on some beautiful architecture, and boasts many listed buildings. Towards the end of the 19th century, it became fashionable among the bourgeoisie and nouveau-riche alike to have a beach villa at Malo. The Belle Epoque was in full swing and Dunkirk didn’t miss out. Extravagant summerhouses sprang up all over. At the time, architectural styles were changing and designers were breaking from classical rules. Bow windows were a particularly popular feature, their angles affording even not-so-waterfront properties a view of the sea. Brick was often used and coloured ceramic was an important touch, intended to make houses more impressive and to show good taste. Outdoing one’s neighbours aesthetically was the order of the day, and Baroque, Art Nouveau and even Gaudi-inspired designs now stand side by side in Malo, still competing for attention. Unlike in the rest of Dunkirk, many of the buildings in Malo-les-Bains were not destroyed in the war, and so it’s a popular filming location each year for the BBC, which takes advantage of the original architecture for its war documentaries. Historical walking tours of the area are available from the tourist office.

One of the main attractions at the Dunkirk waterfront is the city’s casino. With a restaurant, bar and two large gaming rooms, it caters to all interests. The ground floor provides the more low-risk betting options, with 200 slot machines. Old mixes with new, as even casino culture moves with the latest changes in technology – touch-screen machines share space with the traditional one-armed bandits. Upstairs, heavy wooden doors open on to a luxurious interior where more serious games such as poker, roulette and blackjack are played. Here you can also benefit from a more private dinner followed by a night of table games. If gambling isn’t your thing, you can simply enjoy a meal: the airy Cascade restaurant downstairs is open to all and offers Dunkirk’s fine seafood. Prices start at €15 for the Express menu, a three-course meal with water and wine.

The casino also has a conference room that doubles as a concert venue. With space for 300 people, it hosts well-known French artists in an intimate acoustic atmosphere throughout the year. Group prices for dinner plus a concert or cabaret start at €32 per person. It’s also a popular choice for corporate conferences, seminars, team-building events and end-of-year parties. A poker or blackjack lesson with the enthusiastic casino dealers combined with dinner and an evening at the casino makes an interesting alternative to a traditional group night out. The casino is open from 9.00 every day, with the restaurant opening at midday. There’s free entry and parking, but do remember to bring ID as only over-18s are admitted. The casino has English-speaking staff and the beach is on its doorstep, and if you’re planning on staying late, there is a range of B&Bs and hotels nearby.

Luckily for Dunkirk, its seaside escaped the mass tourism drive that swept across the Belgian coast in the 1960s and 70s. There was no economic need for tourism, thanks to a bustling shipyard. Only in the past 20 years has the French government invested in renovations to bring back the splendour of yesteryear. Thankfully Dunkirk’s coastline remains unmarred by high-rise holiday homes and hotels. Rather, the 5km promenade features tea-rooms, cafes, restaurants and a playground for the kids. Charming ice-cream cafes dot the length of the beach. Across the board, food and drink options remain cheaper than their Belgian counterparts, meaning good savings, especially for families.

The beachfront includes several beautiful buildings, among them the Quo Vadis building. This listed structure, renovated with the aid of old photographs, is distinguished by its unusual magenta-coloured brick. And if at any point you’re getting homesick for Belgium, never fear: the taller buildings of De Panne on the Belgian coast are visible on the horizon.

All considered, this is a city worth crossing the border for. With its affordable prices, historical heritage and leisure pursuits, it can be a very viable alternative to a weekend at the Belgian seaside. Put simply, Dunkirk has a little more depth than the typical seaside town.

ESSENTIAL INFO

TOURIST OFFICE

The Belfry

Rue de l’Amiral Ronarc’h

www.dunkirk-tourism.com

CASINO

40 Place du Casino

http://dunkerque.groupetranchant.com