New restaurant fills gap in Saint-Gilles food scene

South African-Australian Richard Schaffer and French-born Mathilde Hatte both fell in love with the Saint-Gilles neighbourhood when they moved to Brussels three years ago. So they decided to open a restaurant.

Le 203 is proving to be a success: In only six months, the relaxed restaurant, which focuses on simple, high-quality dishes, has been able to build a loyal following. “We didn’t want to do it anywhere else,” says Schaffer, who has trained in kitchens in Australia, Vietnam and France.

The couple’s appreciation for the neighbourhood also shines through when it comes to the menu. The wine selection includes bottles from the wine bar just around the corner, and every morning Schaffer picks up fresh bread at the local bakery.

While he rules the (open) kitchen, his partner Hatte, previously a lawyer by trade, takes care of the service. Every Monday, the two plan the menu for the week, with different options every day.

Fittingly, it’s all written on a large pad paper on the wall, and each evening the card gets ripped off to make room for a new one. Schaffer: “In six months, we haven’t done a single dish twice.”

He admits this requires a huge amount of creativity and flexibility – also from the customers, who generally appreciate the element of surprise. “Occasionally someone asks if they can see ‘the real menu’,” he laughs.

The reason for the concept is more serious than just wanting to offer something fun and different. “If a menu has 50 options, there’s no way it’s going to be fresh,” Schaffer explains.

The ever-changing recipes are a result of the cook’s extensive experience spanning different countries and cuisines. “I didn’t want to be put into a box. If I want to have a Thai dish on the menu, I can do that.”

Le 203 always offers two starters, three mains and two desserts, making sure that both meat-eaters and vegetarians find something to satisfy them.

“As soon as a product comes into season, we use it as much as we can, and then we forget about it,” Shaffer says. “You’ll never see us cooking with watermelons or tomatoes in December.”

Sometimes, it takes a bit effort: for his signature homemade syrup, he plucked elderflowers from a tree in a forest just outside of Brussels.

Chaussée de Waterloo 203, Brussels. Photo courtesy Le 203