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Namur en Mai
One of Europe’s quirkiest street theatre festivals is about to swing in to Namur
Even among locals, Namur is reputed for its conservative and cautious character. Undeniably attractive with an old-world allure enhanced by not one but two flowing rivers, it could never lay claim to being the liveliest spot in southern Belgium, despite being the capital city of Wallonia. Yet the arrival of its annual street fiesta is welcomed as a long-awaited ray of sunshine by residents and visitors alike, marking the debut of the summer season in the city.
During the long weekend of May 17 to 20, the 17th edition of Namur en Mai will set up camp in the narrow streets and squares of the historic cobbled centre. Along with the fluttering banners that announce the fair’s arrival, its motif is the fairytale lamps suspended above the streets; decorative and colourful by day, festive and magical at night. Carousels, mime artists, jesters, clowns, buskers and performers fill theatres, streets and impromptu spaces. At the end of the day, a musical cabaret at the festival HQ in Place d’Armes has the crowds on their feet. The transformation, albeit temporarily, into a convivial and family-friendly space, is in contrast to Namur’s most popular event, the Fêtes de Wallonie celebrated every September. Although close to many a Walloon heart, its heady mix of outdoor concerts, traditional folklore and time-honoured over-consumption of beer and pekèt is hardly a relaxing affair.
The alternative Namur en Mai has steadily gained in reputation and is now considered the premier festival promoting les arts forains, or fairground arts. It showcases the best of Belgian and international contemporary street theatre, inspired by the tradition of itinerant street entertainment that dates from the medieval period. Launched in 1996, it boasts a worldwide reputation for the quality and diversity of its acts and performers.
Artistic directors Jean-Félix and Nathalie Tirtiaux have taken a back seat to leave the day-to-day running to their sons Nicolas and Aurélien. According to Jean-Félix, the festival is the city’s soul and encourages an artistic freedom to explore art forms outside the traditional setting of the theatre. For him, it is a love story that surpasses the statistics. “We work hard to create something that appears to unfold naturally and is accessible to everyone. Around half our visitors have never been to the theatre, yet they are made very welcome here,” he explains.
Namur is the perfect setting for the festival, according to Jean-Félix. “It’s on a human scale with its pedestrianised cobbled streets, squares that are not too big and architectural surprises. You turn a corner and come across an unexpected show as well as a surprising building or archway.”
Some 200 shows are scheduled over the long weekend and the programme remains deliberately vague, as the surprise nature of the event is considered apt. Therefore, ‘Unexpected’ is one of its three themes, along with ‘Complicity’, in honour of a collaborative work between mentally handicapped artists and circus performers from Brussels’ Espace Catastrophe and other works arising from partnerships with students from schools in the city and province. The final theme is ‘Village’, which refers to the return of the festival centre to the Place d’Armes after many years in two of the city’s other squares. This is the place to partake of refreshments, pick up the festival programme and book tickets for your preferred shows. Around half of them are free and the remainder are affordable.
The international element also attracts professionals from around the world, keen to sign up shows before the start of the summer festival season. Jean-Félix believes the future of creative arts in Belgium to be strong, despite the current economic climate. “The country is a cultural crossroads with an openness and curiosity which borders on something surrealist and crazy. Street theatre has a long and popular history here and is continually evolving as young artists seek new forms of expression.”
As a spectator it is fun to simply roam the streets, absorbing the atmosphere, interspersed in the evening with music and dancing sessions under the big top in Place d’Armes.
Namur’s normally calm composure can be explained by its administrative and academic preoccupations as home to a long-established university as well as being the capital of Wallonia. Despite never having been reliant on heavy industry, along with many other Walloon metropoles it has been busy rebranding itself as a tourist and culture destination.
Its strategic position on the confluence of the rivers Meuse and Sambre is responsible for its long history of fierce battles and sieges. The continual threat of war resulted in an imposing fortified citadel overlooking the city. The site is home to a vast spectrum of activities, from medieval re-enactments and period theatre to guided tours of its underground tunnels and mellow bluegrass and Celtic music at the Picnic Festival.
Much of the centre dates from the 18th century and has largely been sympathetically conserved. Among the many fine museums worth visiting is the Felicien Rops, devoted to the Namur-born 19th-century artist and caricaturist. It also organises exhibitions of works by other significant artists, particularly contemporaries of Rops. Close to the elegant provincial government palace buildings in Place Saint-Aubain is the Groesbeeck de Croix Museum in an aristocratic hôtel de maître. Dedicated to the decorative arts of the 18th century, it is an evocative recreation of a significant period in the history of Namur.
In addition to the dramatic rock-lined Meuse valley, which includes the pretty villages of Wépion and Profondeville and the city of Dinant, the city’s other draw is its accessibility to the verdant and forested Ardennes countryside. From Namur it is a short distance to the underrated rural Condroz region, the World War Two battlefields of Bastogne, kayak descents of the Rivers Semois and Lesse and numerous abbeys, to name but a few sites and attractions.
Frustratingly reticent in vaunting its attributes, Namur is finally improving its image and accessibility. For a first-time visitor, Namur en Mai is an ideal occasion to discover the city.
May 17 to 20
GETTING THERE
Namur lies 60km southeast of Brussels. By car, take exit 13 or 14 of the E411. By train, it takes 55 minutes from Brussels Central. From the station it is a five- to 10-minute walk to the centre. Alternatively, take the 60-seater tourist train, the CITAD’IN, from the centre to the citadel
ESSENTIAL INFO
ROOM FOR A NIGHT
Les Tanneurs de Namur is a four-star hotel with grill and gastronomic restaurants
Nearby La Ferme du Quartier, in Bouge, is a restaurant and hotel five minutes from the E411 and 10 minutes from the city centre
EATING OUT
Many of the establishments in the centre offer a special menu featuring local specialities during the festivities. The Place du Vieux and surrounding narrow streets are the place to be for a terrace drink or light meal. Alternatively, nearby Rue des Brasseurs has a great choice of restaurants
