La Cigale

You want to love La Cigale, you really do. And, in many aspects, there is a lot to love about the place. Just not the food.

Historians don’t even bother trying to establish when La Cigale opened – it’s always been there, in Saint-Gilles’ Ma Campagne area. Located halfway between Châtelain and Van Meenen markets, it displays none of their smugness. 

Service is efficient, friendly and unfussy; the atmosphere overall is very relaxed. The menu features more Belgian classics than almost anywhere else in the capital. Shrimp croquettes, chicken vol-au-vents, chicons au gratin, mussels and steaks (both with every sauce known to man) – they’re all present and correct… and, from what we’ve tried, mediocre.

Our starters – cheese fondus for my companion, shrimp croquettes for me – were devoid of any taste; both played second fiddle to the tomato and fried parsley garnish. Which kind of defeats the purpose.

The mains, however, did not even have the redeeming feature of being bland – they were straightforward bad. My entire chicons au gratin dish was watery, from the chicory to the béchamel; across the table, the chicken vol-au-vents had a distinct ‘school canteen’ feel to them. We didn’t even try the desserts.

Pricing is altogether cheap (a very nice Graves at around €26 was the find of the evening). But I would rather pay good money and feel like I’m on a proper night out as opposed to being reminded with each mouthful that I can do much better at home.

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