Escape to Lyon: The Bulletin's guide to France's gastronomic capital

France’s second metropolis is a gastronomic capital and a more welcoming city than Paris. It can also serve as a pitstop for travellers driving south to warmer climes or en route to the Alps.

The ancient capital of Gaul is a former industrial powerhouse and a major cultural hub, with an impressive and diverse architectural heritage, and in recent years it has been graced by contemporary designs by worldwide names.

The convivial city is one of contrasts: the narrow streets and covered passageways of the medieval centre and the abundance of Roman ruins are all testament to Lyon’s long and illustrious past.

The TGV from Brussels takes between three-and-a-half and five hours, with some direct trains. Tickets cost €50-€200 one way. Alternatively, Brussels Airlines flies regularly from Zaventem.

Culture

The city is full of museums; highlights include the Musée des Beaux Arts (a mini Louvre), the Musée des Arts Contemporains, Musée Lumière and the futuristic Musée des Confluences.

One lovely institution is the Musée Gadagne in a Renaissance building in the old town (Vieux Lyon), which has two museums: one devoted to the history of the city, the other to puppets from around the world. Consider catching a concert at the Auditorium Maurice Ravel by Lyon’s national orchestra.

Alternatively, the Opéra de Lyon stages classical and modern interpretations, while the Théatre des Celestins has a dreamy setting and is a city landmark.

Festivals are scheduled all year round as part of an innovative city agenda. Take advantage of the Lyon City Card (from €21.90) to access 22 museums, including temporary exhibitions.

Eat & sleep

A typical Lyonnais restaurant is known as a bouchon, a label that denotes authentic top-quality cuisine. They’re ideal for sampling regional specialities such as quenelles, offal, charcuterie, salade lyonnaise, Saint-Marcelin cheese, tarte aux pralines and bugnes (wing-shaped doughnuts).

The Halles Paul Bocuse is where locals come to shop and eat. Le Canut et les Gones is a bouchon with a modern twist; Le Musée is more traditional (reservation recommended). For pastries, chocolates or macarons visit any one of Sebastien Bouillet’s shops. Chateauneuf du Peuple is an artisan wine bar, taking advantage of Lyon’s location at the centre of a fine wine region. If you’re on a budget, consider Slo Living hostel; the boutique Hotel Silky offers something more bijou in the old town.

See & do

The old town is a well-preserved Renaissance quarter and a Unesco world heritage site. La Croix-Rousse is a hilly area, home to traditional weavers and silk workers who were the main workforce in the 18th and 19th century. It was built around three main cathedrals, Saint George, Saint Jean (its famous astronomical clock is pictured above) and Saint Paul.

The passageway at 8 Rue Juiverie is a tourist favourite, with its Italian-influenced gallery, while number 7 opposite has outstanding sculpture and vaults. The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, a late 19th-century place of pilgrimage, offers a magnificent view of the city; stroll through the rosary garden to join the old town. The Parc de la Tete d’Or is the city’s green lung.

This article first appeared in ING Expat Time