Railroad Blues
What happens when you convert an old railway station into a shrine to all things jazz? We take the midnight train to the Jazz Station to find out
Saint-Josse-ten-Noode’s Jazz Station is another fine example of Brussels’ curious talent for converting its architectural heritage. This cultural centre dedicated to all things jazz is housed in a converted railway station, built oddly astride the Luxembourg-bound tracks and decked out in flamboyant late 19th-century style. As with Wiels or Botanique, the originality of the building makes the project all the more successful, and the renovated interior, with its warm wood, undulating lines and minimalist feel, contrasts amusingly with the gaudy architecture.
It all started with the jazz-loving mayor of Saint-Josse, Jean Demannez, who was intent on creating a maison de jazz for Brussels. “We opened in 2005 as a museum,” recalls Bérengère Cornez, managing director of the Jazz Station, “then the Saturday concerts started and the jazz association Les Lundis d’Hortense moved in.” Since then, Jazz Station’s activities haven’t stopped. Visitors can enjoy jazz-themed expositions as well as concerts by musicians from Brussels and beyond, and take part in classes and jams, all of which is punctuated by the rumblings of the odd passing train.
Back in the golden age of jazz, the Brussels scene enjoyed quite a reputation. No one familiar with the city’s dark estaminets, heady beers and vibrant musical culture will be surprised to hear that, but while the Jazz Station is looking to rekindle the local jazz scene, it’s also trying to broaden its appeal beyond the few remaining jazz bars, according to Bérengère.
“We hold concerts every Saturday afternoon to make them more accessible for families and for kids,” Cornez says. No doubt, that’s quite a transformation for the old-timers.
Jazz Station
193a Chaussée de Louvain
1210 Brussels
Photo by Bart Dewaele
