Dancing in the streets
Fancy dress and food fights – it must be Carnival time. Here are a few of our favourites from around Belgium
Right before the 40 modest days of Lent, Carnival is the last opportunity to (cross-) dress up, dance like nobody is watching and drink and eat to excess. Rio and Venice may be the world’s most famous cities for their celebrations, but closer to home, we know how to party as well.
Aalst: February 19-21
The city of Aalst in the province of East Flanders is no carnival lightweight, with the big parade taking place for the 84th time this year. From Sunday 19 until Tuesday 21, the city centre will be taken over by tens of thousands of visitors watching decorated floats mocking politicians, celebrities, and local events. Aalst Carnival is best known for its parade of Voil Jeanetten (Dirty Jennies), men dressed in little more than short skirts, fishnet stockings and wigs walking through the streets, but the atmosphere is lively throughout and even after the parades stop, Aalst carnival parties are renowned for going on through the night.
To watch the floats, head to the town centre on Sunday at 13.00 or Monday at 14.00. Make your way to the city hall for the traditional onion-throwing at 14.30 – catch one of the hundred onion sweets and you might win a prize. On the final day, you can witness the Jennies strutting their stuff on Grote Markt at about 15.00. Carnival ends at 21.00 on Tuesday, when the carnival doll is burned to the sound of Amazing Grace on bagpipes.
Advice: the people of Aalst are very proud of their carnival, and work months in advance to get their costumes and floats ready for the big celebration. You don’t have to get dressed up if you’re visiting, but if you don’t, you’ll probably be asked a few times why you didn’t.
Binche: February 19-21
Probably the most famous carnival in Belgium is in Binche, and it goes back to the 14th century. In 2003, it was named a Unesco Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. It’s celebrated every year at the same time as the carnival in Aalst and is best known for its Tuesday parade of the Gilles – performers disguised with wax masks, red costumes and wooden clogs. The Gilles are subject to strict rules: they have to be born in Binche, can only come out on Mardi Gras, need to be guided by a drummer at all times, and are not allowed to sit down or get drunk in public. On February 21, they gather on the Grand Place where they dance with their brooms to the sound of drums. After having chased away the cold and evil spirits, they parade through the centre throwing oranges to the public. The day ends with fireworks.
Advice: while Tuesday is the most popular day, there’s lots to do and see on Sunday and Monday including floats, parades, music and fireworks.
Carnabruxelas: February 11
While carnival in Rio de Janeiro dates back to around 1600, Carnabruxelas (Brussels’ own Brazilian carnival) is gearing up for its eighth edition at Tour & Taxis. On February 11, a week earlier than in Rio, there will be lots of samba music, dancing and laughter. The organisers want to show anyone up for it what a real Brazilian carnival looks like. If you dress up, you might even win flights to Brazil.
Advice: you’ll need a ticket to be part of the festivities. They cost €15 in advance and are available from Fnac.
Eupen: 16-20 February
The carnival in the German-speaking city of Eupen is influenced by German traditions. The madness starts on Thursday 16, with the parade of the Old Ladies. Anyone wearing a tie, be careful, as the ladies will cut it off and keep the remains as a trophy. This tradition goes back to the 19th century, when ladies weren’t allowed to participate in the official carnival activities. To make up for it, they started celebrating a day earlier. Another highlight of the festivities is the children’s parade on Sunday, followed by the big parade on Monday, Rosenmontag. You’ll see hundreds of floats pass by, the last one carrying Prince Carnival, who’ll greet all visitors with a hand gesture and his traditional greeting, ‘alaaf!’
Halle: 10-19 March
Just outside Brussels, the town of Halle (in Flemish-Brabant) knows a thing or two about carnival. The big children’s celebration takes places on Saturday, March 10 at 12.30 in the cultural centre ’t Vondel. The next day, the famous fair of Halle opens on the Grote Markt. A week later, the first carnival parade takes place on Saturday, March 17 at 15.00 and will tour through the centre, followed by another round of floats and parades the next day. On the final day, the people of Halle will participate in the krottenworp, where they’ll try to throw a regional sweetie as far as possible. The festivities end with a huge firework display on Graankaai, and the burning of the dolls on Grote Markt and Biezenweide. When all official events are over, the party continues in Halle’s many bars.
